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Ab,if the neck is actually bowing,that is the whole problem there,easiest fix,without destroying everything,would be just pull the frets,fill the fret slots,just at the edges,then laminate a 1/4 inch fretboard on top,that will stiffen the neck,and give you more scope for action variation by raising/lowering the bridge,plus an improved string break angle,as long as your neck is straight pre gluing that should stop the bowing,at least for the length of the fret board,2 other things to consider,why not try it as a 3 stringer,or try lighter gauge strings
I agree with Daryl. Adding a fretboard will "lower"the string height by raising the neck. I had that problem and lowered the bolt I used a nut deeper into the neck which helped. As for slide, cant help there as I have just started fooling around with one myself. Good luck.
For a quick fix, Darryl is right. A little work can salvage it fairly easily. Slide is fun, I'd encourage working with it more to get proficient. I build both types depending on whim, time, random bursts of ambition. If I'm putting a mag pup in it's likely to get frets, but it's no guarantee. Last one I finished is a baritone with a 4 pole base pup under the lid with no frets. Love that thing, sounds mean as hell. Next baritone will probably be fretted. It helps to plan out your builds as far as you can. The 3 degree kick is nice but I've only done one with the neck angled, all my others are straight as I can get them. still play just fine.
I agree with everyone else's comments. I would suggest a separate fretboard is pretty crucial for a 4 string. I have recently started using a non-adjustable mild steel rod in my 4 string necks to further reduce the risk of bowing.
On my 31st build (solid body 4 string, the one on my profile pic) I just did a straight Strat style neck joint, although I usually have some back angle. I have no complaints with how it plays.
To help in strengthening your builds I glue a piece of wood at the back end of the box for the necks back end to sit on and also adds strength for a piece of wood on the outside of the box where I put the string anchors.
On wood that is soft and bends I usually will glue a piece of scrap oak to the underside of the neck piece thats inside the box. Simple fix that seems to work well. Cheat anyway you can... :)
For strings I use the Ernie Ball super slinkies... Much lower tensions needed on builds. I also use wood nuts and bridges built from some very hard wood I have. This stuff is so hard its taken teeth out of my 1/2 blade on my bandsaw. So I file it as low as I can get away with and if I make a mistake... I take some of the sawdust that I filed, put some in my mistake and add a drop of very thin crazy glue. Problem solved.
Y'all are awesome! I did elect to take everything apart (much easier than I feared) and fixed it. I started off with a 3 degree angle (calculated height on the neck angle calculator tool I googled... nice) and set everything up. I didnt like it. neck was so thin at the body that it was bowing. I sanded it all back down and braced it with another 3/4" x 1.5" piece of mahongany glued and clamped and shaped to a heel. fret board now sits 1/4" above the body and no angle needed. i did glue two 1/2" small pieces of wood to the bottom of the box to support the rest of the neck. It is plenty strong now, no bowing, no buzz, strings are just about perfect where i like em... Lovin it. I will post some pics when i get home if anyone is interested.
Thank you all for the helpful advice!!!
Ab
good news Ab,enjoy
Feels nice when things work out well... especially so after a face palm mistake and you can fix it up right.
And yep a pic of the done deal would be nice.
Looks great.
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