I haven't seen this from others so I thought I'd share. (if it is old news then I was the last to know!) Basically it is just two boards, one for the neck and the other for the thru part. It seems to give an advantage in that it creates an angled neck and is one less joint. The angle keeps the neck from touching the top without extra recessing on the neck. Depending on the wood used, the depth of the front cut out, and the length of the box determines the angle of the neck. Using 3/4" wood gave me a bridge height of about 1/2". I did it on a built box but the same approach would work with a cigar box. Ignore the cut out part, that is because there is no separate fretboard and I wanted the frets to extend over the box. If it seems short that is because it is - it is going to be a concert scale uke LPU.
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Kigar,
Looks good. I use a separate fretboard for several reasons. The main one is that if you screw up the frets, you have to pretty much scrap the whole neck. I fret the fingerboard before attaching it. Then I use hide glue. In case of a disaster you can remove the fretboard.
Also, I don't do neck thru on ukes. With the shorter neck, a bolt on works fine. I think the sound is a little better without the extra mass of wood in the body. I am using the "barrel" type connector and a 1/4 X 20 screw for the mounting. Drill a vertical hole in the neck near the back end, drop the barrel in and cover the hole with the fretboard. Those connectors are the kind used in Ikea furniture. I can't remember their real name. I learned about this method from this site.
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