Howdy folks,

A question about bowed necks. I use pine for my necks cause here in Australia it is as far as I can work out, about the same as in price and availability, the same as poplar and we don't get that down here. My question is, can you straighten a bowed neck and how or is it not worth the hassle so just remake another neck. The problem is that it is already glued in and I don't want to go to the bother of cutting it out and replacing it.

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How many strings? Fretted, or un? You could cut a slot in the back, and epoxy a piece of steel into it...

3 string unfretted.

Another way to go would be to destring it, cut a channel in the neck from the top, then installa 1/4" hardwood fretboard. The Phrygian Kid, an Aussie like yourself, swears by tassie oak for necks and fretboards on his homemade gits.

You wouldn't have to fret it, but it does several things: 1) gives you the option to fret later; 2) gluing a fretboard of hardwood on top of the pine will offer some resistance to bowing. You might not even need a truss rod in that instance, with only 3 strings; and 3, you can get some nice figure in tassie oak, that can be brought out with stain.

Thanks for the advice Oily. As I replied to Timothy, I think tassie oak will be the way to go. And as it is a plantation species and not old growth forest,(which is important to me), I will use it for my necks in the future.

sam, im in brisbane and i got my neck from Bunnings. they sell Tasmanian Oak its about 40 x 18 dressed. in 1200mm lengths.they also sell 40 x 8 mm also 1200mm length.less than $20 the pair and you can get two fretboards out of the 8mm.  pine is too soft. even if you straighten it out it will bow again without some stiffener .

Heya Timothy,

I'm in Brisvegas as well. Ye I think Tassie oak will be the way to go. The pine i'm using is 42 X 18, so 2mm less isn't gonna make any difference. I think i'm just being a super tight ass as it is only $2.04. Thanks for the advice Timothy and Oily.

Golf club shaft router a channel epoxy it in put a fretboard over it never going to move now. Also never glue the neck to the box for this very reason.

Sam,Pine might work ok if you use it 1/4 sawn upright, but , it really isn't worth the hassle, Bunnings in WA carry jarrah in great sizes for necks, but i don't think they carry it over your way, also i think Bunnings carry Merbou Aust wide and that is pretty hard [8 plus janka i think], if not , Tassie oak is a middling compromise. Keep an eye out for any sheoak that comes up,[you could make train tracks out of that], also keep an eye out for anyone demolishing a shed/house etc, i get most of my neck wood that way now, another option is hardwood flooring off cuts, or demolition leftovers, if it's not thick enough, just glue and laminate it. One last thing there's no shortage of in Q/land is bamboo, laminated, it is very hardy

Hi, I use Bunnings Tassie oak with no problems at all on many 3 and 4 stringers.
I select only the 1/4 sawn lengths of suitable deep section and add a hardwood fretboard with frets.
Cheers Taff

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