Hi all, Happy New Year everybody.

I did not want to hijack Ricks fine tread on this subject so here is my idea of jigs I use to splice and glue necks.

The fence is mounted on a board that has locating pins in it that match holes in the saw table. This makes it quick and accurate to set up. The fence keeps the neck blank upright when the two are clamped together, it also stops the saw pushing the neck out of line.

I use one long length of timber [neck blank] and place it against the fence, an adjustable "stop" pin [just to the left of the sawblade] is adjusted to give the correct peghead length. I cut the splice flip over the peghead piece and glue it to the neck shaft.

If you have wide stock like in my photo you can cut it in half having spliced two necks at the same time.

The glue jig also has a fence to keep the neck blank square and to prevent the two pieces from sliding out of alignment when the clamp pressure is applied. There is an adjustable "stop" at the peghead end to prevent the peghead sliding away. You can see how two necks can be had from this size stock.

Cheers Taff

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nice jigs Taffy, is that a 15 deg splice/scarf joint?

nice write up Taff, I love making jigs for all kinds of setups

Another nice photo series of a scarf joint jig. A veteran builder  shares his learned tips. Take note, new builders....lots of experience and wisdom available in these forums. Thanks Taffy.

Hi Tim, I use a couple of different angles for different peghead styles. Slotted pegheads would use less.

Thanks for the comments guy's, here's a photo that did not come out earlier for some reason.

Cutting the blank.

Not all the tools and jigs I use are needed to build CBG's, but where they are I will post details. I find that sometimes it gives someone a "lightbulb" moment to solutions to other cost/time/accuracy issues.

Cheers Taff

How did this get in the for sale section? oops! I'll have to pay more attention.


Was wondering myself, thought maybe the topic was going to finish with "necks for sale" lol

no biggy though, not like we didn't find you, don't seem like this section gets used all that much anyway.

I have to start being a little safer though, I basically cut mine the same way, but without any jig other than my arm and hand clamping it to the table and a quick swipe....bad I know, I'm not promoting this action, if anything, condemning it.

I don't even know the difference between a Blog and Forum post. There are some areas here that only get one or two posts a year. I just go to the same old section, they all appear on the Forum list in the side bar...don't they?

Re holding the timber with your hand -  may work ok with a narrow piece of neck stock, but when its 80mm high it can tend to wobble under saw pressure.


I've been cutting mine with a chop saw and holding by hand for some time. It is difficult to hold the piece straight and keep it from flipping over, so a jig is best for this. I keep telling myself I'll make a jig if I make another neck, but for some reason it never gets made. ;)

BTW Cutting the wood too fast can result in the blade walking and cutting an uneven degree, so take your time cutting. Especially if your cutting hard wood. And make sure your fingers are out of the way. I saw a guy cut the ends off of 4 fingers on a radial chop saw once, it only took a couple seconds and altered his life so be careful guys and gals.


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