#1 resource for Cigar Box Guitars, Free Plans, How-To, Parts & More!
Cigar Box Nation is sponsored by C. B. Gitty Crafter Supply, your one-stop-shop for Cigar Box Guitar parts and accessories!
Phyrigian Kid, fretless intonation, lol. I showed one to a guitar shop owner and while playing it he said I think the intonation is off at the 12th, I looked it him and said maybe your finger is off. Oh he says, maybe thats it. Still now sure if he was joking or not, very dry person.
After reading all the posts I must add that I do intonate my strings at the bridge with a slight angle also. Hey I want the notes to be close to the fret marks I burn in so carefully.
cute argument, but i suppose i could point out that the "intonation" me and darren are referring to involves the nut and bridge (being as we're both guitar players.). seeing as i mentioned the masking tape to mark the note positions on a fiddle, i think we both understand intonation pretty much just means proper string length; which can be changed with you fingers(or slide). this is why i called the lap steels a red herring, coupled with the fact swamp dawg said he was fingering notes.
i wouldn't think they built the suckers, but next time, move that bridge a few mm's outta place, and see what happens. it's not angled on violin for the same reason it's not angled on a uke, the scale it so short, however it's intonation is still "set". move the bridge and the scale completely changes. also as i remember, it's not wise to move the bridge off of the sound post, but thats a completely different discussion ..... and hilariously i saw a fretted fiddle just the other day in a local music shop. other than the frets and a slightly higher string height, it was a standard fiddle.
in any case, i hope they stick with it, i've always had a soft spot for the fiddle (i'll always call it a fiddle..... cultural thing i suppose..) i quit when i was young because they ram celtic music down your throat at home, weather you like it or not. and if you don't play it juuuuuuust so, your doing it wrong. there is no lea way to make the song your own. they rip apart any bowing styles that aren't "the proper (apperantly "old") way. after 4 years, at 11 years old i told them all to f--k off and quit. the only bummer there was if i hadda stuck with it, i would have inherited my great grand fathers 200 year old fiddle. ( what a beauty). now it's wasting away in someone's closet. ah well. i found the guitar. :D
in the end i think it's more that your arguing semantics, not so much that your wrong. just saying. you don't wanna set your intonation, thats your business! ;) i'm gonna do whats been working for me just the same! lol
The higher the nut the more you stretch the strings to fret them and this shows itself most at the frets nearest the nut. What is needed it to compensate the nut in the same way as the bridge is compensated at the other end. What this means is making the distance between the nut and the first fret shorter than the fret calculators say. The higher the nut, the more comes off between the nut and fret 1. All the other fret to fret distances remain as they were.
As far as I am aware nobody has made a calculator of how much the nut to first fret distance should be reduced for a given nut height, so it really is a case of try it and see.
Hope this helps.
Am I right in thinking that using a zero fret limits you to a fairly low action (when seen from the point of view of slide players at least). The original poster (Swamp Dawg) was referring to using high action. I had assumed that this meant higher than could be achieved with a zero fret, although I am not sure what the highest fret wire is. Presumably the reason that the zero fret pretty much avoids these problems is because of the low action that results. This also explains why people who like a high action often don't like the feel of using a capo.
like i said before, i set my intonation so i can chord fretless. deeper nut slots? higher bridge? which is it??? (lol, just poking.) i think i also pointed out that a slide needs little or no pressure.
and he swamp dog did clarify he was having the issue when fingers, not sliding.
at the moment i tune D A d f#, so i have a few chords and scales that hit the first fret, even if mostly on the f# string, be it frettless or fretted, i want that note in the same spot, so i don't have to fish for it on the fly.
Just hard enough to get a clear, unmuffled note. The frets are "medium".
Whew, thanks, guys and gals, for all the feedback. Personally, I'm playing fretless with a slide and fingering, and it's set up nice. I put frets on all my builds since everybody wants them. I lower the action to achieve proper intonation (balancing nut and bridge), and they play well, but for myself I don't like using a slide on fretted gits, and was looking for a happy medium. I think I'll try super-low frets and see if the slide rides better on them, but I guess the action will always be on the low side to get clean notes at all frets. Hopefully the low frets will give me a touch more clearance. Probably I'll just have a fretted and unfretted git, then a reso, a wine-box 4 string, a blue one......