Goes to show that shopping/hunting for the right/ adequate piece of wood , is just an important knowledge base as building is.
Hi, I agree Pick. Why would I put all that thought, time and effort into building an instrument with unsuitable timber.
I have been to my local [130 km away] Bunnings hardware store and only bought timber once out of three visits. I go through the whole rack and only pick the good 1/4 sawn Tassie Oak for my CBG necks, and only then if it is straight. Its the same cost as the crap.
If one is cutting fret slots an 1/8" deep the slots are either whaaay too deep or the fret wire has unusually high tang. My Evo [gold] fret wire has a tang of 1/16" and my regular wire is a bit more than that, but nowhere near an 1/8".
Umm, no comment.;)
well i dont know if anyone has mentioned this but i thought the solution was obvious.
the red part is the first 1/8 the yellow is the second and the big black box the Cigar box..( not to scale in the slightest....lol) . the lid can now vibrate without cutting the neck...
That'll work too.
I will cut the fret slots to about 3/32" for a flat fretboard. If I'm going to have a radius fretboard, then I'll cut the slots 1/8" to 5/32" deep.
You need to have the slot cut at least a 1/32" deeper than the fret tang. That allows the fret to firmly seat into the board instead of bottoming out and rebounding upwards slightly. Another thing about fret slots that aren't cut deep enough, is the wood contracting or swelling with temperature/moisture changes. If the slots are a little deeper, the frets are less likely to raise up with those changes.
A 1/8" fretboard with a bunch of 3/32" slots will be more likely to crack in the slots with temperature/moisture changes. So a 1/4" fretted finger board is ideal. Some big name guitar companies have started using 5/16"/8mm finger boards.
I have used several from Rockler with great success. Cherry and a few other hardwoods. All have been solid and straight.